I like travelogue books, particularly those with a sense of humor…Bill Bryson’s made a pretty good career out of just that. So I was particularly curious to read Stephen Fry‘s In America, which I finished recently. Mind you, it was published in 2008; I just hadn’t heard of it and by and large hadn’t heard of him before .
Fry’s a middle-aged British comic who decided to come to the U.S. to visit all 50 states and film it for a British TV show. The book outlines his adventures, most of them occurring in places he got to by driving an authentic London cab around… which doubtless drew a lot of odd stares on the highways! So, starting in a Maine lobster-fishing port in fall, he worked his way up and down and around the land, ending months later at the fish market in Seattle before flying to Alaska then Hawaii.
It’s an interesting read because he not only sees a lot of the quintessential American places and tourist attractions – the Gateway Arch, Mount Rushmore, the National Cemetery in Arlington, Virginia, Arches monument, the Golden Gate Bridge and so on – but also because he talks to a lot of ordinary Americans. Making it all the more interesting is, obviously, he’s a foreigner so we see the country through outside eyes. This is something I can relate to, being a Canadian by birth, but the differences between home countries is greater when there’s that ocean between them. For example, probably nothing surprises him more than college football … or rather the religious fervor fans view the sport with (which was eye-opening for me too when I first spent time in Georgia). He attends an Auburn – University of Alabama game and gapes in wonder at being almost unable to drive to the stadium because of all the tailgaters… six hours before the game started! “It is like some vast refugee camp. A refugee camp where everyone has beer, food, television, electric light, a sound system, barbeque sauce and (of course) more beer.” He’s floored by the beauty of the Utah Arches and desert scenery (“nowhere on earth looks anything like this”) but appalled by … well some things that are tough for most to take, like the homeless problem in so many cities. He loves a junior rodeo in Oklahoma but hated Waikiki Beach in Hawaii, but found solace there by hanging around with singer Jack Johnson’s wife on a more remote part of the island hearing about a school she helps run there. He enjoys a visit to the Ben & Jerry’s plant in Vermont; all the more when they let him blend some of his own ice cream.
Also high on his list of things he did not like was Atlantic City. This makes for some historically fascinating perspective; nothing there bothers him more than Donald Trump, his omnipresent appearance in the city and his casinos. Recall this was 2008… long before Trump the businessman became Trump the presidential candidate. He suggests whipping him with scorpions for the tawdry buildings he’s put up and for taking the name of “priceless mausaleum of Agra, one of the beauties and wonders of the world” and applying it to his gaudy, tacky casino – the Trump Taj Mahal. You can be a fan of President Trump or a foe but either way, it made an interesting couple of pages getting the perspective of an outsider about him when he was just a rich, loud executive and reality TV show face.
Fry was perpetually disappointed with the homogenization of American cities – the same fast food drive-thrus, Gap and Target stores and uniform strip malls from coast to coast – which I think is a sentiment quite a few Americans share. Thus he loved Asheville, a city with lots of small shops and not so many national outlets; loved the fish market in Seattle ( one place where he could find “real” bread and cheese, not to mention fresh seafood) but didn’t care much for the rest of the city, home of blustering American icons Microsoft and Starbucks. Yes, Fry could be a wee bit condescending at times, and was almost unabashedly politically correct, which becomes tedious in a few spots. He’s appears appalled that there are a couple of older Black ladies working for a White woman at an estate he visits in Georgia but more appalled that they – the staff ladies – seemed happy to be there. I say “almost unabashedly politically correct” though, since he does refer to northern Natives as “Eskimoes”… and sneers at those who try to use other terminology. He says ones he’s met describe themselves as “Eskimo” so why should he differ?
He is baffled by the religiosity of the masses, mocks people who believe in Sasquatches, doesn’t like the diet of most Americans and finds the cities largely bland and lacking character. However…and this is a big “but” … he also mentions that most of the Americans he met coast to coast were friendly, had genuine smiles and were welcoming to strangers, more than he’s experienced in his own land. That made him love the country far more than when he began his journey. Which is a pretty good final impression for any country to leave with a visitor.